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The reason I have not (yet) bought ramps, is that the car will be tilted so, I think not as much oil will drain.
Have not yet done oil change myself on Macan. But I would like to.

When I use jack stands on other cars where there are choices for jacking points, I jack up, place jack stands, place drain pan, remove drain plug to start oil draining & then I remove jack stands to let the car go back to level to finish draining. Then I come back & lift again & place jack stands to change the oil filter & close the drain plug

More work but I think I drain more oil with these extra steps.

I'm probably being too picky. Maybe I drain 95% instead of 90% if I would have just left it up on jack stands or used ramps?
 

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I used Rhino ramps with my S and I think pretty much all oil drained out. I added 8.5 qts of new oil and the oil level indicator shows oil level right in the middle between full and low.
 

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The goal to getting all the oil out is to let it drain for a longer duration. I doubt a Porsche tech lets oil drain for 2+ hrs when he has a que of 5 more cars to work on.

I performed my 1st oil change last month on ramps and I got almost every drop out since my refill amount matched the exact required amount (forgot the # off the top of my head). I’m pretty **** anal/particular about my beloved car as well. #rampsaregood
 

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I put the car on ramps, remove underbody panel, make sure the drain plug and filter are slightly loose, then reverse off the ramps. There’s enough room to change the oil without the ramps. I go back on the ramps to put the panel back on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Picked up a CPO 2016 a few weeks ago. Looking at the carfax it appears that the oil hasn't been changed since 5/2018 when it was in for 30,000 mile service (bought with 37000 miles on it). Called the service department to see if carfax was correct and he stated the it hadn't been 10,000 miles so there was no need. Um yeah, so thanks to this thread I changed it today. Super easy. Although the number of screws holding the belly pan seems excessive.

Oh yea, dealer wanted $385. No thanks.
 

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Picked up a CPO 2106 a few weeks ago. Looking at the carfax it appears that the oil hasn't been changed since 5/2018 when it was in for 30,000 mile service (bought with 37000 miles on it). Called the service department to see if carfax was correct and he stated the it hadn't been 10,000 miles so there was no need. Um yeah, so thanks to this thread I changed it today. Super easy. Although the number of screws holding the belly pan seems excessive.

Oh yea, dealer wanted $385. No thanks.
You can update the carfax history too since you d.i.y. I also uploaded my receipt as proof I purchased the items too.
 

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Picked up a CPO 2106 a few weeks ago. Looking at the carfax it appears that the oil hasn't been changed since 5/2018 when it was in for 30,000 mile service (bought with 37000 miles on it). Called the service department to see if carfax was correct and he stated the it hadn't been 10,000 miles so there was no need. Um yeah, so thanks to this thread I changed it today. Super easy. Although the number of screws holding the belly pan seems excessive.

Oh yea, dealer wanted $385. No thanks.
More interesting would be the transporter that carried you from year 2106 back to the present.
 

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Just changed the engine oil on my relatively new to me 2015 Macan Turbo yesterday (got the change oil now message a couple of days ago and decided to get it done...exactly 1 year and about 5500 miles on the drained oil).........this is what I used and my experience.....sorry for the long post

Tools etc:
Ratchet/Wrench (appropriate size for sockets/hex bit etc..)
8mm Hex bit/Allen bit (for removing and tightening the oil pan drain bolt)
Low profile 36mm socket (for removing and tightening the oil filter canister/housing)
Torque wrench (that fits sockets...etc.)
Small flat head screwdriver (for removing the old oil filter o-ring on the oil filter canister/housing)
T25 driver bit for removing/re-installing the undercarriage cover screws
Special tools for removing push-pins etc....(i bought a set off of amazon...was cheap...but didn’t use it...see below)
10 Quart open oil reservoir/catch (helped curb some of the splashing due to the high container sidewall....BUT more on that later!!!)
Shop towels and rags
Funnel for ease in adding in new oil
Race ramps with correct rating to support the weight lifted
Floor Jack with Porsche Macan jack point adaptor (I personally use it for additional stabalization/safety as one can never be too safe.... I was able to do this because the race ramp set I have separates once the car is up to allow removal of the ramp part allowing the extra room/access needed for using the jack/front jack point....otherwise the ramp part would be in the way of the jack)
Chocks for the rear tires (more safety)
OBDII scanner capable of re-setting oil nag message when done.....I used the Autel MaxiDiag MD808 model...worked flawlessly (otherwise the stealership or an Indy can do it but they most likely will charge $$$$ because it is SOOOOO labor intensive to push a few buttons and connect the wire to the OBDII receptacle)

Materials:
I bought the Macan oil change kit from FCP Euro (about $100) and comes with:
8.5 quarts of Liqui-Moly 0W-40 “synthoil energy A40” full synthetic oil
Mahle Filter with correct filter housing o-ring separately provided (incorrect o-ring comes inside the box....decided to keep and use it for whatever else a thick “rubber-band” may be needed)
New drain bolt/crush washer
I also bought Liqu-Moly MoS2 additive (use/have used this in my gas cars for years and they have run as smooth as butter)

Okay....the details:
Drove the car for a few minutes to warm up the engine then drove the front up on the race ramps....went up easily without any drama.....applied the electronic parking brake....opened the hood and opened the oil fill cap to allow venting while draining the oil.....chocked the rear wheels....and used the jack/jack point adaptor on the front passenger jack point for additional stabalization/safety
Removed the undercarriage cover.....I found only 13 screws in place holding up the undercarriage cover....2 were missing as were the push pins but it was pretty secure anyway....no big deal and I can’t say I was upset not to be able to fiddle with the push pins!!!....removed the screws freeing the cover....then pulled the cover rearward to free it from the front chin (it tucks into this area)
Didn’t find any major oil stains or fresh oil leaking (relieved to say the least)
Now the fun began.......
Positioned the oil catch reservoir and proceeded to remove the oil drain bolt.......Now I have done oil changes on other cars.....all 5W30 or 10W30 ......BUT......this is the first car I encountered with 0W40 oil.....so although I anticipated it was a thinner oil.....and I had a deep oil catch reservoir.....the oil comes out like water out of a water cannon and it still managed to splash out of the container anyway and onto the mat and MY ARM....never had that happen before (I will most definitely install a Fumoto valve next time as I can control the stream and avoid the splashing...have it on my Subaru and love it)
Once I cleaned my arm and the surrounding area....I removed the oil filter canister housing.......I unscrewed it slowly and let it drain little by little (controlled drain) so that by the time the housing was freed most of the oil had already drained out and I just tilted the canister downward and spilled the remaining oil into the reservoir....next I wiggled out the old oil filter off of the flange...
I let both the filter and drain bolt areas drain accordingly (I let them drain for about 20 minutes and washed the undercarriage cover while the oil was draining...because...why not).....
I then cleaned the oil filter flange area to remove the old oil...got it all nice and shiny......
I replaced the o-ring on the oil filter housing and lubed the ring with new oil
Next I installed the new filter cartridge...but first I stretched out the inner holes of the filter cartridge with some new oil dabbed on my fingers to allow for easier installation of the filter on the flange and in the oil filter housing....went on easy as did the filter housing.....tightened it by hand until resistance was met and then torqued it down accordingly
The oil drain plug I removed from the car looked just as “new” as the new drain plug that came with the kit I bought.....not sure why it is recommended to be changed with every oil change.....but whatever...I had the new one so I used it....kept the old one as a backup....who knows if it may come in handy
Put on the new crush washer....hand threaded the bolt until hand tight and then torqued it down accordingly
Cleaned the oil filter housing area and oil pan area to remove the old oil/any splashing.....this gave me a good baseline to evaluate for any leaks when re-inspecting after adding the new oil and restarting the car
Next I added the oil.....I added 7.4 qts of oil + one 300ml can of MoS2 (which replaced 300ml of new oil volume that would have been added)....for a total of roughly 7.7 qts by volume.........(from what I have read on the forum.....it is better to add slightly less up front as it is easier to top it up than to drain the excess if it is initially overfilled up front....which is more of a hassle.....not to mention that there is no way to know the level until you drive and get a reading....BRILLIANT design Porsche.....a simple dipstick would have been MORE than sufficient)....
I replaced the oil fill cap and then started the car and made sure all was good....I let the car run for a few minutes and when I was satisfied that everything was good (no leaks etc.) I turned off the car and replaced the undercarriage cover in reverse order from the way I removed it
Cleaned up everything (in an environmentally responsible way of course!) and removed jack/backed off the ramps
Next I reset the oil nag message and went for a drive (the car must be driven a few miles before an electronic reading is available to interpret).......when I got the reading it was correct and in the lower third of the min to max area....I added some more oil and went for another drive and checked it again.....which placed the level just above the middle of this min to max area.....all in all I added a total volume of about 8.1-8.2 quarts (including the MoS2 volume)...will watch the level and let it settle over the next few days and adjust as needed.....all done......(me:1....stealership:0)...... money saved used to treat the wifey or kids or myself....(me:2....stealership:0)
 

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For $170 bucks... I’ll let the pros handle this. I like to get a breakfast burrito hit my Indy and let them do thier thing. Then check out if they have any classics being worked on etc.
233991
 

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Need to buy a new supply of oil filters and noticed Rock Auto now sells the Mahle D5 filter with the correct O-ring (see my post #261 above). 3 years ago in the U.S nobody sold the D5 and one had no choice but to buy the D4 filter with the incorrect O-ring along with the correct O-ring separately.

Interesting that Rock Auto charges about $5 more for the D5 versus the D4, wonder why. Are they selling the D4's and adding in the correct O-ring as Pelican was doing 3 years ago? (today Pelican merely mentions in the fine print the O-ring that comes with the D4 is wrong and tells you which O-ring to buy separately).
 

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Need to buy a new supply of oil filters and noticed Rock Auto now sells the Mahle D5 filter with the correct O-ring (see my post #261 above). 3 years ago in the U.S nobody sold the D5 and one had no choice but to buy the D4 filter with the incorrect O-ring along with the correct O-ring separately.

Interesting that Rock Auto charges about $5 more for the D5 versus the D4, wonder why. Are they selling the D4's and adding in the correct O-ring as Pelican was doing 3 years ago? (today Pelican merely mentions in the fine print the O-ring that comes with the D4 is wrong and tells you which O-ring to buy separately).
I ordered a few weeks ago. They’re Mahle Branded OX254 D5 filters.
234479
 

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Just want to say thanks to all for the advice and guidance in this thread.

Just did my first oil change on my new-to-me 2015 Macan S using ramps, filter, O-ring, crush washer and new drain bolt from Suncoast and good, old, Mobil 1 european blend in the 5 quart jugs from Amazon. Parts costs, including oil, was around $85 and a $60 one-time charge to download Porsche software to my Foxwell NT530 scan tool which I can verify successfully reset my oil change indicator with no issues. About three hours start to finish taking my time, most of that was waiting for the oil to drain. Good news is that I warmed up the engine first which helped the oil to flow more readily. Bad news is you have to be super careful with the hot engine and hot engine oil.

To whomever suggested filling to around 7.5 to 8 quarts first, driving around to get a reading and then top off many thanks! This strategy really relieves the risk of an overfill and worked brilliantly for me.

As an added bonus I also purchased two new engine air filters from Suncoast for $65 since they had never been changed per the records I've got (was dealer serviced only) and they were, ahem, filthy.
234484

I believe the recommended replacement interval here is 80K, which seems a little ridiculous. On most of my other cars these engine air filters are $10-15 so I just replace them annually (3-5K miles) during my oil change. Overkill, perhaps but it only takes 15 minutes.

Next up will be spark plugs. Were changed at 30K but coming due again soon. Fortunately PDK fluid was replaced at the dealer in January and it's got new brakes (pads/rotors) that were done about 4K miles ago in December, also at the dealer, along with the brake fluid. Thanks to the PO for also putting on a new set of tires at the start of the year.
 

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2021 992C4S, 2020 Macan S, 2008 Touareg V8
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May I suggest:


?

Yes, oil filters available at Rock Auto with gaskets. Dealers have been known to charge for the gasket separately.

As to dealers or indies charging to clear the SRI, they have to amortize the analyzer, which is understandable. Another reason to buy one yourself and DIY.

Coil packs are lifetime unless they fail. Any dealer telling you differently means it's time to look for another dealer or indie.

Iridium plugs (due to the tips) are pre-gapped and thus don't need to be. As mentioned don't insert a feeler gauge to test as you will damage the electrodes. I've not obviously removed the packs on the Macan yet (at 6k miles) but there is a coil pack removal tool which simplifies matters enormously on VDubs and Audis. Available from many sources such as ECS Tuning etc. Perhaps such a tool is available for Porsche?

siberian
 

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Just changed the oil for the second time using this write-up. Big thumbs up. The process is very straightforward, but frustrating to remove so many of the T20 screws. Inside of an hour, I'm able to save $350+ based on local dealership prices including the cost of materials, so I guess I can't complain. :)

Reset the indicator with iCarsoft (also used for my Cayman) and it's pretty painless for a once/year job.
 

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Did my first oil change on my '17S last night, went easy. If you're an average size person and not too stocky you can do it with the car on the ground, it really wasn't a problem. One thing that does make removing the underpanel fasteners a breeze is a cordless ratchet. Low profile, and extends your reach. Love my Milwaukee one.

Milwaukee 2457-21 M12 12V Cordless Lithium-Ion 3/8 in. Ratchet Kit
 
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