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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Edited. 9/27/15. This post has been edited to ensure one does NOT drain the PDK fluid. Changes approved by @TripleZ 9/27/15.

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I got my Macan up on the hoist the morning, decided to take some photos. Basic DIY oil change thread, but haven't actually done an oil change yet (only have 600miles). Ill update as I get torque values / better photos.

8/23/16 edit

torque specs for oil filter and drain plug as confirmed by dealer and porsche mechanics are...

- filter = 18 lb-ft

- drain plug = 22 lb-ft

Un-verified method, use at your own risk!

What you need:
8.5 Quarts (8 liters) of Mobile 1 - 0W-40 or (5W-40 for hotter climates)
Oil filter, filter housing 0-ring, drain plug crush washers
Oil Filter Kit from Sun Coast Parts
Star drive and Metric Allen drive sockets, flat blade screw driver
Torque Wrench, Cordless drill with adjustable clutch preferred for underbody screws.
Drain pan, rags for oil mess, drop light or flashlight
Jack/Jack stands or hoist

Start by raising your vehicle to a working height. In order to change the oil / filter, the front under body panel must be removed. While this can be done with the vehicle at normal height, extra working room makes it easier.

For air suspension equipped Macans, disable auto leveling control by pressing and holding the low level button for 60 seconds (until a message is displayed). Do not just raise the Macan to the 'high' level for the oil change, as it will self level and may trap / crush you under the car.



The jacking points are easily identified on either side of the car, just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheel. Jack stands can also be placed at these points if you are working on the ground.




Start by removing the front under body panel. Its made of a fiber pressed material, with a single stiffening / air dam piece attached. Remove the two large plastic push pin retainers first using a screw driver, then the perimeter star drive screws.




The panel is retained by the front air **** and rear pockets captured in other panels. Disengage the rear retaining flaps first, then slide to the rear to disengage from the front air ****. Assembly is the reverse of removal, however put the two black push pins in first after you get the panel in place, then install the perimeter screws.

Slide this out first:


Then slide the entire panel towards the rear:


With the panel removed, you should now have a view like this. Oil filter in the top left, with a drain plug for the external sump on the bottom. An another drain plug for the engine pan located by the cross member.



9/27/15 2nd image deleted.

Place your drain pan under the dry sump housing, and remove the drain plug (the FRONT plug ONLY!). The oil will be HOT if you recently ran the engine (even for a few minutes).

Once it stops draining, you can replace the crush washer and reinstall the drain plug.
Torque: TBD

Next, remove the filter housing and allow the remaining oil to drain. Remove the filter, check for metal particles in the housing. Install a new filter into the housing. Replace the o-ring, and smear a light coating of new oil on it.
Torque: TBD
- I will add a photo soon-

Wipe up any drips, a clean engine is a happy engine.

Section deleted with 2nd plug

9/27/15 ADDED:

Do NOT open the rear bolt which is connected to the black pan. That is the drain for the PDK Transmission fluid. If you do drain it out it can mean a costly mistake and tow to the dealer to refill the PDK transmission fluid.

Torque: TBD

Reinstall under body panel, reverse of removal.

Open the hood, locate the 710 cap and using a suitable funnel, slowly refill the engine with 8.45 quarts (8 liters) of Mobile 1. When done, restart the engine and verify oil pressure. Oil fill level may not be immediately available in the display, but should be verified after driving a short distance.


IF YOU OVER FILL
It happens. You will need to put the vehicle back up on the jack, remove the under body panel and drain some oil. I'd recommend draining from the engine pan, as there will be less oil in that cavity to begin with...... and you should hopefully only need to drain a little bit. If you use a CLEAN container, the oil can be reused. (Clean, i.e. spotless)
 

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Awesome. I would leave the underbody panel off till you are done the oil and filter change. That way you can run it and then double check for leaks before re-installing the cover. :)
 

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For air suspension equipped Macans, disable auto leveling control by pressing and holding the low level button for 60 seconds (until a message is displayed). Do not just raise the Macan to the 'high' level for the oil change, as it will self level and may trap / crush you under the car.
Just wanted to repeat this important reminder, because for a couple of seconds I thought--hey I am getting the air suspension, maybe there is enough room...
 

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Excellent DIY! Thank-you.

Only place to get the Kit is from Sun Coast?

What is the spec for the oil? Can we use other 0w-40 (like Castrol Edge), or isn't it the same spec?

TIA
 

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Whilst I will never ever be doing this, major props for an epic how to thread :)

Great info @TripleZ!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Excellent DIY! Thank-you.

Only place to get the Kit is from Sun Coast?

What is the spec for the oil? Can we use other 0w-40 (like Castrol Edge), or isn't it the same spec?

TIA
Filters can be bought from a dealer, or any aftermarket brand. Your dealer might try to get you to just get the service rather than pick up the filter and crush washers.

For oil, the manual recommendation is Mobil 1. I think any full synthetic will work from the major brands. I like Mobil 1, because as of a few years ago, they were still the only true PAO synthetic and not just a highly refined mineral oil.
 

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Great post TripleZ

From my other post as an FYI:
For those DIYers out there, 5 quart Mobil 1 0w40 jugs are on sale at Walmart for $22. There is a mail-in rebate going on for $10 off, leaving a net price of $12 for 5 quarts. My first oil change that I will do at 2k will be about $50.
 

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Thanks, I have a four post lift and an oil drain in my garage. Now all I need is Macan :)


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I was told I have to use the Mobil 1 specified in the manual. After I get the car and the manual I will check the spec and pick up 8 litres of the specified oil 6 months or so later, when it's on sale so I have it "in stock" :)
 

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just make sure it's Porsche A40 approved oil as labeled.

Although Mobil 1 0w40 is filled @ factory, your local dealer may use other brands. My dealer uses Castrol 0w40 European formula.
 

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Thanks for the excellent and detailed instructions. One question: do you have the sizes for the Star drive and Metric Allen drive sockets? Thanks!
 

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Also, to avoid over-filling, may I suggest to fill 8 quarts/liters first, drive it around and then check and see how much more needs to be topped up.

My 2 cents....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll fix it, I think it broke the link when I was moving pictures into albums.
 

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Might be worth mentioning that the under panel is made from some kind of fibrous composite and had my hands itchy for a while from handling it without gloves.
 

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Also jacked up my Macan the other night on one point only. Must say that the under body design is not floor jack friendly at all. The car's literally only got 4 jack points where you can jack it up, everywhere else is completely covered which cannot hold weights.

Unless some clever guys can come up with something really creative, otherwise a two post lift like the op has or at least a ramp is going be be needed.
 

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I'm thinking air set to high gives me enough room, and if it lowers its not a nice working distance, but it's not a crush height either. Opening a door to get out of the macan disables the air ride from lowering, since it could cause an open door to become damaged if the ride height changed. So set air to high, leave a door open, place a jack stand under one lift point for a just in case measure.

The low button pressed for five seconds disables the auto level. Usually used for jacking the car up from one point, which makes the car no longer level. Five seconds resumes function afterwards. I was able to disable the air ride while it was in the high position too, but the car can not be running, or when you hold low, it will lower, then disable.
 

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Also jacked up my Macan the other night on one point only. Must say that the under body design is not floor jack friendly at all. The car's literally only got 4 jack points where you can jack it up, everywhere else is completely covered which cannot hold weights.

Unless some clever guys can come up with something really creative, otherwise a two post lift like the op has or at least a ramp is going be be needed.



I purchased the AC Hydraulics Jack (DK20/DK20Q) years ago for my Corvette because of the low profile. They have an optional crossbar that I hope will work.

The plan is to use ramps for the front wheels and the jack/cross bar for the rear.

Hydraulic Jacks · DK20 / DK20Q · AC Hydraulic A/S
 

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I purchased the AC Hydraulics Jack (DK20/DK20Q) years ago for my Corvette because of the low profile. They have an optional crossbar that I hope will work.

The plan is to use ramps for the front wheels and the jack/cross bar for the rear.

Hydraulic Jacks · DK20 / DK20Q · AC Hydraulic A/S
the crossbar is a cool idea, never seen anything like that before. However I still doubt that you will be able to lift Macan's front using that.

You see the front has absolutely only 2 jack points, everywhere else is covered with panels. So if you jack it up using these 2 points, you will be left with no more points to put jack stands in. Unless you just leave the hydraulic jack there while working underneath the car?
 
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