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Great Info

Task #5: install oil
You would think this is 100% simple but the oil filler area on the engine is very small. You will not be able to insert your quart container of oil in there and drain all the last drops. You will need to use a funnel. My first funnel would not work, too big. I ended up using another funnel that had thinner plastic at the bottom and I could shove it into the small area of the oil filler and then let the oil quart drain completely.
The 2.0T Macan requires 4.7 quarts of oil. Depending on how long you drained you should fill accordingly. You can always add more if you are down a little. Once the oil is in install the filler cap and engine cover and you are ready to go.
Start the engine and let it run and check your level. Top off if needed.
A pretty straightforward job and one you can easily do with minimal tools and you’ll save yourself a ton of money over a dealer oil change. I wrote my mileage in my maintenance manual. There is a service reset to deal with but that is for another thread.
Good luck.
Just had a lift installed this week. My wife's Macan is due for the first change this week. Thanks for sharing all the information.
 

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Good question. There are four rubber connectors, one at each corner. Just pull each corner up slightly until they let go and then pick up the entire cover at once. Make sure that the connectors stayed with the cover. Sometimes they come off the cover and stay with the engine mount. If that is the case, just pull it off the mount ball and reapply to the cover.
I've learned a little trick with these covers, which are used on many makes of cars. The rubber connectors tend to get stuck on the engine, so when you pull the cover off, check that all four are on the cover; if not take them off the engine and put them back on the cover. Then lubricate the center of each with silicone spray. That way the cover will go on/ come off smoothly and the rubbers will stay on the cover.
 

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I changed oil in my 4cyl Macan a couple of times now and was only able to extract 70-80% of oil through suction method each time. I do it every 6 month now expecting to replace most of the oil at least once a year. Apparently a few folks on this thread were able to get most of the oil out in a single shot. What I'm doing wrong? Thank you
 

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I changed oil in my 4cyl Macan a couple of times now and was only able to extract 70-80% of oil through suction method each time. I do it every 6 month now expecting to replace most of the oil at least once a year. Apparently a few folks on this thread were able to get most of the oil out in a single shot. What I'm doing wrong? Thank you
Last time I did mine I got over 90%; at most I left a half-quart remaining. I have a MityVac extractor that uses semi-rigid polyethylene tubing. Oil temperature was about 170F, which is close to the max recommended by the tool manufacturer. I had the car on a flat surface (my garage).

The ends are diagonal cut to make it easy to insert into the rubber fittings. That may be the issue on why I couldn't get more out. Next time I'll experiment with a 90 degree on the suction end to see if that works better.

Also, since the "dip stick" tube is at the front of the engine, I could probably get more oil out if I lifted the rear end of the car.
 

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Getting ready to attempt this.
One question I have that I didn't really see an answer for already is...the drain plug. Can I reuse the OLD one?

I didn't see a NEW one with the oil filter I got recently from the dealership. Wanting to know if reusing the old is OK.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Getting ready to attempt this.
One question I have that I didn't really see an answer for already is...the drain plug. Can I reuse the OLD one?

I didn't see a NEW one with the oil filter I got recently from the dealership. Wanting to know if reusing the old is OK.
Thanks!

You probably could but I wouldn't go more then 2 changes. They only cost $2 at the dealer.


As for you oil extractors, remember, even if the extractor leaves behind only 10% of the original oil that is going to be the 10% with any crap in it because it is at the lowest point.


It may be a small pain but you can't beat the conventional drain. The crap comes out first with this method and it is sure to come out.
 

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I just did my second oil change, again using my MityVac extractor. I did not lift the front of the car. Instead, after the initial suction, which was about 4.5 quarts, or 90% of the oil, I forced the poly tube down further into the pan and moved it around a bit while pumping more. This got out a lot more oil, very close to a full five quarts.

One other thing- I never got a reminder at 10,000 miles, so there is nothing to reset.
 

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When you use MityVac you are supposed to leave the car level as normally parked.
 

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A good tool to use to remove the push pin holders is a garden tool designed for digging up weeds and getting down to the root. It is bent and has a forked blade on the end that makes it easy to get the last bit. I use a flat blade screwdriver to start it by pushing it in the side and twisting, which gets it about 1/4" out. Then I use the garden tool to get it out the rest of the way.
 

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I am going to try the suction method next week. What diameter ( inside and outsid Thanj diameter) have you used? Thanks, Papo
 

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Great Info



Just had a lift installed this week. My wife's Macan is due for the first change this week. Thanks for sharing all the information.
A great helpful write up. A few suggestions . The oil drain plug is plastic with a rubber O ring. Several folks have asked about reusing. I say NO. For the few $ cost why gamble on the O ring being cut or compromised on removal. The correct oil is 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP. Not 5W40. And the MANN Oil Filter some have noted HU6002Z has been superceded by HU6013Z. Apparently the 6002z is a paper filter that was replaced with a fleece material in the 6013Z. .

Cheers
 

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Posted this in my 2019 Oil Capicity thread but thought for referenice those with 2019 4cyl 2.0 need to know....since our oil spec is now different.

My 2019 2.0L took 5 liters and the electronic oil indicator showed 1/2 way in the green. I drove it like that and it maintained that level which is fine. So for experiment I added a little less that 1/4 of a liter and the indicator shows almost full. I left it there and have put on another 3,000 plus miles and it maintains that level.

Also the ONLY 0w20 Porsche approved C20 spec oil I could find in the USA was Liqui-Moly Top Tech 6200. 0w20 with the Porsche C20 approval is THE ONLY approved oil mentioned in the owners manual. I could not get the Mobil 1 c20 oil or Motul but Liqui-Moly is a top oil so I am good.
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UPDATE.. Just had an oil change 4 CYL. at an excellent highly skilled independent .All his tecks and owner have worked and been factory trained. He used the new MANN HU6013Z filter. Its fleece and superceeds HU6002Z which is paper. He does not remove the plastic drain plug , but has a pump to suck the old oil out. The OIL PAN is plastic and he has seen too many come in with the tabs on the oil pan broken off. If you choose to remove yours be VERY careful removing and installing a NEW plug. Don't reuse the old one. Oil refill is 4.7 qts. If you put in 5 the reading on the dash will show overfull. Not good.
Cheers.
 

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For the DIY crowd..... I recently used the suction method to remove the old oil and a 5/16" OD x 3/16" ID vinyl hose worked very well. Also I parked the car on a downward slope and the engine was warm. A very easy process especially since the oil filter is so easy to reach. Cheers
 

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For the DIY crowd..... I recently used the suction method to remove the old oil and a 5/16" OD x 3/16" ID vinyl hose worked very well. Also I parked the car on a downward slope and the engine was warm. A very easy process especially since the oil filter is so easy to reach. Cheers
Why the downward slope? I would think level would be best, but what do I know? I have a large vacuum pump for my boats and auxiliary tools which is a very good tool.The secret with vacuum pumps is get the oil hot first. I keep the old oil in old recycled Tide jugs and then carry the old oil into the car parts shops where they take it for free in Washington state.
 

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Why the downward slope? I would think level would be best, but what do I know? I have a large vacuum pump for my boats and auxiliary tools which is a very good tool.The secret with vacuum pumps is get the oil hot first. I keep the old oil in old recycled Tide jugs and then carry the old oil into the car parts shops where they take it for free in Washington state.
My thinking in facing the car downhill was to have the oil deepest near where the suction hose reached the sump bottom, and therefore empty the largest amount of oil. I estimate that the front of the car was 8 to 10 inches lower than the rear. I used a pump that I also have used in boat oil changes.
 

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For the DIY crowd..... I recently used the suction method to remove the old oil and a 5/16" OD x 3/16" ID vinyl hose worked very well. Also I parked the car on a downward slope and the engine was warm. A very easy process especially since the oil filter is so easy to reach. Cheers
Don't use vinyl- it's too soft and probably can't get past the bottom of the dipstick tube. Use polyethylene since it is stiffer. Cut the end at an angle and that will make it easier to get past the bottom of the tube and well into the pan. After the pump nears the end of the drain and starts to draw air, you can twist and "rod" the suction tube to get all along both sides of the pan for it's entire length. You can get out a lot more oil that way.
 

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I just wanted to jump in on some recent comments.

You can reuse the plastic oil drain plug. My car just 20k, and I change the oil every 5k. I've done 4 changes and used the original drain plug for 15k, and finally changed it on my 4th oil change. No problems or leaks.

@[B]ef1018[/B] the only way I see the plastic oil drain plug breaking if, one is over torquing it like a metal one. Very little pressure is required to remove and plug back in. I've done it 4 times.

As for the amount of oil in the 2.0 engine, I've always put all 5 qts in the engine (some in the oil filter). My oil reading has always been a little under the line, and green. Maybe it's the fact that some of you using the vacuum pump isn't really getting out all the oil, as opposed to a drain.
 

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After the dealership did the first one for free, I just completed the oil change the oil fashioned way the first time just to check all the suspension parts and inspect axle boots myself one time at least to see how it all looked. All good, and to also see how they engineered everything, some impressive suspension geometry. But the next oil change, will use the oil extractor, the port is right there by the filter.

Just a few other things I found that might also be helpful to anyone tackling this job for the first time. In dropping the pan, it's the most time consuming part of the job and a little tedious, lots of screws it seems. The oil change is ridiculously easy. Went with the spec grade oil Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w-30 to see if any impact on gas mileage.

When taking out the 2 push pins that hold the pan up, you can see from the side of the pan how they work somewhat. Can use two hands to work. They're stuck in pretty good, but I found it best to use a small flat screwdriver to loosen the prongs up top a bit first, then used the same or slightly larger screwdriver to pry the pinhead out. A wedge tool would be good too. I used some pliers to help pull it down. It will then pop out, and you then pull out by hand. No need to break it. If you do, looks like they're cheap to replace at least but you have the hassle of sourcing new ones.

When reinstalling the pan after you're done with the oil change, start with the 3 front Torx screws that slide the pan in under the bumper guides, that aligns the pan. Then go back and do the 2 push pins. All the remaining Torx bolts all line up and reinstall quickly. Be sure to check the floor for any forgotten screws so you don't run over them after oil change.

I also used the $8 Audi/VW plastic drain plug tool, it fit into the plug very nicely. My kit had a new drain plug to install with the filter so just used it. I could also see how the right sized screwdriver would work instead of the $8 tool as well. Car has a cool lightweight plastic honeycombed oil pan. When reinstalling plug, it just clicks in. Used an iPor code scanner to reset the oil reminder in about 5 minutes. The car's control panel showed no obvious trauma of not being at a dealership.
 
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