I never found it dangerous & now with ACC even less so. As several have said, it is useful for those of us who tend to speed w/o really wanting to. I may find myself going 50-60 in light traffic in 40-45 zones. If I'm not in a hurry & deliberately pushing it, I use CC & now ACC as a tool (crutch) to keep to a reasonable speed, say ~5 over the limit.Don't mean to go OT or preach but I never understood using cruise control in city driving. My wife uses cruise control in almost every driving situation and it makes me nuts. Car speeds up on uphill sharp curves, just dangerous.
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soo...here is how it played out...
One of the rotors was gouged and warped. It was not worn noticeably in the 5000mi of driving.
Upon discovering the damaged rotor, they simply replaced the pads and rotors up front. They automatically (of course) replace both the front rotors when there is a problem with one. They didn't even look at the other one. Just replaced it.
They have not seen enough macans in for brakes to know what is going on, but "occasionally a bad rotor gets installed..." is the only explanation offered. I trust this guy. He's been working on my cars for more than 17 years.
They didn't care that i had some sound from the front end a couple thousand miles before. Porsche rotors are not supposed to wear out in 5k and there's no reasonable way that they could be mistreated such that this would be a problem.
Regrets to those who asked for pricing on the brake service...they did the repair under warranty--not even a question about that--and thus the receipt was zeroed out on each line item.
Though it was a pain to bring in the car--and have a loaner while i played golf yesterday--the dealer and porsche seem to have taken good care of me, as usual.
(maybe it was all in celebration of the head of porsche group taking over all of vw!)
This method for retracting the parking brake worked like a charm. I changed only the brake pads on my Macan S this past weekend. It wasn't all that different from any other car except for the parking brake obstacle in the rear. All you need is a wire with little alligator clamps and a 12v battery. It takes about 10 seconds of winding before the caliper piston starts to spin, and it was retracted. Then at the very end I engaged the parking brake. It winded again for 10 seconds and then the brake grabbed.1. With everything on the calipers still fully assembled, disconnect the electric connector from the caliper. Inside the connector on the caliper, you'll see two medal pins sticking up. Using a 12 volt battery source, connect a positive jumper to pin 2, and connect the negative jumper to pin 1. If the caliper piston starts to push out, stop and reverse the electrical leads. You should hear the parking brake retract. Initially, the piston will not move. Continue until the caliper piston starts to spin, then stop! Now push the caliper piston back into the caliper with a brake tool, channel locks, c-clamp, etc. Replace pads as you would normally. After all the pads have been replaced. Pump brake pedal until you have a firm pedal. Then turn on and off the electromechanical parking brake a few times and you should be good to go.
Brake service came out to around USD1,500Brake light and message came on the dash this week. After reading the thread, guess I should expect costly brake job. Sigh! Just had my car in for regular check 2 months ago, then the replacement of the transfer case last month!