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Don't mean to go OT or preach but I never understood using cruise control in city driving. My wife uses cruise control in almost every driving situation and it makes me nuts. Car speeds up on uphill sharp curves, just dangerous.
I never found it dangerous & now with ACC even less so. As several have said, it is useful for those of us who tend to speed w/o really wanting to. I may find myself going 50-60 in light traffic in 40-45 zones. If I'm not in a hurry & deliberately pushing it, I use CC & now ACC as a tool (crutch) to keep to a reasonable speed, say ~5 over the limit.

I am wondering if the ACC "rides the brakes" though.
 
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soo...here is how it played out...

One of the rotors was gouged and warped. It was not worn noticeably in the 5000mi of driving.

Upon discovering the damaged rotor, they simply replaced the pads and rotors up front. They automatically (of course) replace both the front rotors when there is a problem with one. They didn't even look at the other one. Just replaced it.

They have not seen enough macans in for brakes to know what is going on, but "occasionally a bad rotor gets installed..." is the only explanation offered. I trust this guy. He's been working on my cars for more than 17 years.

They didn't care that i had some sound from the front end a couple thousand miles before. Porsche rotors are not supposed to wear out in 5k and there's no reasonable way that they could be mistreated such that this would be a problem.

Regrets to those who asked for pricing on the brake service...they did the repair under warranty--not even a question about that--and thus the receipt was zeroed out on each line item.

Though it was a pain to bring in the car--and have a loaner while i played golf yesterday--the dealer and porsche seem to have taken good care of me, as usual.

(maybe it was all in celebration of the head of porsche group taking over all of vw!)
B r a v o ‼ ‼ ‼

:D
 
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1. With everything on the calipers still fully assembled, disconnect the electric connector from the caliper. Inside the connector on the caliper, you'll see two medal pins sticking up. Using a 12 volt battery source, connect a positive jumper to pin 2, and connect the negative jumper to pin 1. If the caliper piston starts to push out, stop and reverse the electrical leads. You should hear the parking brake retract. Initially, the piston will not move. Continue until the caliper piston starts to spin, then stop! Now push the caliper piston back into the caliper with a brake tool, channel locks, c-clamp, etc. Replace pads as you would normally. After all the pads have been replaced. Pump brake pedal until you have a firm pedal. Then turn on and off the electromechanical parking brake a few times and you should be good to go.
This method for retracting the parking brake worked like a charm. I changed only the brake pads on my Macan S this past weekend. It wasn't all that different from any other car except for the parking brake obstacle in the rear. All you need is a wire with little alligator clamps and a 12v battery. It takes about 10 seconds of winding before the caliper piston starts to spin, and it was retracted. Then at the very end I engaged the parking brake. It winded again for 10 seconds and then the brake grabbed.

What I found odd was my rear pads were worn out more than the front. I'm wondering if this is because I have the PTV+. My front pad sensors had not yet been triggered.

FYI, there are four brake sensors, one on each wheel, one time use only.
 

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I just replaced all four pads and rotors for the first time, original set went 60k miles before the sensor went off. Paid $1480 for labor + parts. I can't believe they lasted 60k miles tbh. Mostly highway driving though.
 

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Happy New Year Macaners!!!!


Have a 2017 Macan S (just over 24 months old) with 57,000 miles and Brake Warnings just came on, Yellow yesterday and red warning added today. Porsche stating approx. 3K Canadian for all 4 corners...ouch. Guess that's the cost every two years with all the mileage I'm piling up. Plugs just changed a few weeks ago, $700......ouch...I may do these myself next time around....Vroooom!!
 

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No disc change?
 

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About 3 Years ago, when I had my '02 Boxster, 5 speed, lapis blue, I needed pads, discs and wear warning indicators replaced. A friend and member of the PCA Shenandoah Region had me out to his place with a concrete garage floor and an asphalt driveway. He had an '00 white Boxster S, 6 speed, that he autocrossed regularly, and did all his own work.We got the parts from an outlet similar to Pelican parts, for about $200-$300 (don't have the receipts, as I sold it to a guy from DC and all the receipts went with him). We jacked up the fronts and did them, then the rears. We had about 3 hours in the entire project at $35/hour. You might find a similar relationship with an owner in your club. I found it to be an opportunity to get to know my friend better and to learn a lot about my vehicle. We also replaced the serpentine belt, located behind the seats and beneath an aluminum cover. The new belt was very tight so we laid it out on the asphalt for a coupla hours to soften it up. This enabled us to get the belt on without too much trouble. By the way, I didn't track the Boxster, so I used Kumho Ecsta 721s (?) AS. Very good on the dry and exceptional in the rain. Drove it mostly weekends or warm weekday afternoons with the top down if I got home early enough. Splendid vehicle with, by far, the best a** on the road.
 

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I just came back from regular annual service. They advised me that brakes would be needed soon, which included front/rear pads+rotors.
I have about 34K miles on the car, but mostly city traffic.

The quote was for 2800$ and probably without taxes.

Time to look for an Indy and see what they have to say.
 

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I bought all the parts at 40k for my 16 turbo from partscontainer on ebay and a few of the bolts from suncoast Porsche. i spent about $1350 total. I have a Por II unit for release the emergency brake and save your a lot of time. The whole job is very easy and quick. I spent extra time cleaning as much of the brake dust of all components with out being ridiculous.
Bled them as well with a master cylinder pump bottle from Schwaben. Definitely do this every two years the color difference in the fluid over time is very visible which mean water and age is an issue.
 

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If parts total cost close to $1500, I think $2000 including labor at an Indy shop is quite reasonable.
 
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zimmerman appears to be the oem replacement
Total cost of front and rear (rotors + pads with sensors) just under $1500AUD

I was tossing up between zimmerman oem and dba t2 slotted (not much of a price difference) - decided to go with dba t2 slotted and ebc yellow stuff pads
 

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Does Porsche routinely do a brake fluid flush along with pads, rotors & sensors replacement?

I will need R brakes "soon" & not too long b4 F brakes:
Per Porsche tech comments:
"Rear brakes: into sensor close to wire
Front brakes: Close to the sensor"

I'm @ ~ 36K miles & do mostly city driving.

Quoted $950 R & $1400 F, T = 2350. I don't think that includes tax & maybe shop fees.
I don't think I'll get F&R done same time if I can drive several thousand more miles on F.
jzwu says can drive another 5k miles with brake sensor light on if going to change rotors as well.
Post 37
https://www.macanforum.com/forum/co...-requires-pads-rotors-changed-together-4.html

Waiting on Indy Porsche specialty shop quote.
 

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Brake fluid should be flushed after the brake pad change.
 
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@iconoclast, thank you for the info on the brake/rotor cost. I just had master cylinder replaced and asked for a brake fluid flush since I am about a month away from the 2 year mark since the last replace. I am at 47K miles and they said I may have another 1K to go before the fronts hit the sensor to trigger the message. The quote they gave me for front brake rotors and pad with labor is $1,440 at $150 labor rate. I wonder why @jzwu is stating that brake fluid must be changed after the brake service. I hope not since I just had it done. The interesting part is that my rears are good even though we have PTV+ and have over a thousand round about in the areas so we are twisting around all day every day. I am conviced that PTV+ makes rear brakes last longer for a simple reason that it does light automatic braking vs manual hard breaking by the driver to slow down in/during/out of turns.
 

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I don’t know why I said that, but that was 6 months ago. ;)
 

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I think I had asked if during a brake job, does Porsche (or any mechanic) routinely flush/replace brake fluid.
I didn't want to pay for a brake fluid change only to get a brake job a few months later & have it done again.

I bought a tool to check the moisture content of my brake fluid since I live in a dry climate & after 5 years, it is typically still < 1%.
YMMV.
 
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