[Nickgh]

I am considering getting either a recent (2022 or newer) vintage CPO, or possibly a new T or S. I am kind of thinking I am nuts given the costs of ownership. I have heard stories of the aluminum bolts they use and how failures in those bolts can cause real headaches, among other issues. On the other hand, a German engineered engine is something that other car companies cannot replicate. I can handle the higher maintenance costs, but would hate for the car to be in a long-time-to-resolve recall, or the kind of surprises I do not expect to get in a quality Japanese car. I guess I would start with the fact that the S is what intrigues but a lot of reviewers think the lighter front end and the goodies you get on the T makes that worthy of consideration. Playing around with the build website the S is about $10k more than the T and the T is probably $5k more than the base. I have only (and very briefly) driven the base and it was ok, but no faster off the line than a lot of others. I hear the launch control on the T does make a big difference. Any feedback is welcomed.

 

[///Bruce]

Stop thinking the Macan is rife with issues. It is not. I own an ‘18 Turbo since new with 61K+ miles as of now. To date, the TCC leak was found and fixed under warranty at 30K, a fried alternator from the oil leakage also fixed under warranty and that’s it. Any other costs are maintenance charges, tires, brake pads, wiper blades, etc. The Macan is seen as very reliable compared to the competition.

 

[Nickgh]

Thanks. I am still likely to pull the trigger. Good news for you it was under warranty. Bad news is you don’t see these issues generally with a lot of others. I did have an Audi Q5 with 57k miles and why I sold it, I am still wondering….

 

[lyricgskills]

My advice is if you are considering a Base or a T at all is to post the build codes for each and we can help you build the Base properly, you most likely should order a Base optioned correctly and it will be much lower cost then a T. Something as simple as adding Sport Chrono to the Base will give you the same launch control as the T for example.

If you are considering an S that is a different discussion. Either way whichever you choose you’ll be happy with or if saving money doesn’t matter then my advice does not matter 😊

 

[Willie Web]

I bought a used 'S' 3yrs ago........ did the transfer case under warranty and no other problems.....
Headache free in my case

 

[Nickgh]

My advice is if you are considering a Base or a T at all is to post the build codes for each and we can help you build the Base properly, you most likely should order a Base optioned correctly and it will be much lower cost then a T. Something as simple as adding Sport Chrono to the Base will give you the same launch control as the T for example.

If you are considering an S that is a different discussion. Either way whichever you choose you’ll be happy with or if saving money doesn’t matter then my advice does not matter 😊

Thanks

 

[Nickgh]

Thanks much

 

[ryeager]

Have not heard of any engine oil leak troubles with '19 and later models. The 4-cylinder in particular seems to be bulletproof for all model years.

Adding a tune to the 4-cylinder makes it lots of fun. Its slightly lower front end weight helps it feel very nimble around town! Add a pedal commander if you don't like the factory throttle response.

 

[Nickgh]

My advice is if you are considering a Base or a T at all is to post the build codes for each and we can help you build the Base properly, you most likely should order a Base optioned correctly and it will be much lower cost then a T. Something as simple as adding Sport Chrono to the Base will give you the same launch control as the T for example.

If you are considering an S that is a different discussion. Either way whichever you choose you’ll be happy with or if saving money doesn’t matter then my advice does not matter 😊

Have not heard of any engine oil leak troubles with '19 and later models. The 4-cylinder in particular seems to be bulletproof for all model years.

Adding a tune to the 4-cylinder makes it lots of fun. Its slightly lower front end weight helps it feel very nimble around town! Add a pedal commander if you don't like the factory throttle response.

 

[Nickgh]

Being an idiot around things like ”tunes“ what does that entail and if you do something aftermarket will it affect the warranty? I am not a do it yourselfer either. I am very interested in learning however. Thanks for the input

 

[Nickgh]

Here is a quick breakdown…on the base I added a color (grey) wheel locks, premium package, PASM, noise insulated glass (not sure if $920 matters that much), ionizer and heated steering wheel. $66,300, with air suspension PASM $67,700. The T would be $70,700 with air suspension. Feedback is welcomed, both in terms of dropping stuff or adding. Thanks again so much friends!

 

[lyricgskills]

Here is a quick breakdown…on the base I added a color (grey) wheel locks, premium package, PASM, noise insulated glass (not sure if $920 matters that much), ionizer and heated steering wheel. $66,300, with air suspension PASM $67,700. The T would be $70,700 with air suspension. Feedback is welcomed, both in terms of dropping stuff or adding. Thanks again so much friends!

If you post the build codes from the configurator after you create your Base and T we can look at them.

 

[Nickgh]

Oh I see

 

[Nickgh]

Here is one: PP7G37M2

 

[BMinSFL]

A newer CPO is your best bet, factoring in the depreciation savings and that you have the balance of the factory warranty then your CPO warranty kicks in. Downside is you don't get to build to your spec.

I recently purchased a 2021 CPO and I am covered under warranty until 10/2027. Coming from Lexus, that gave me some peace of mind and that I'll get a nice loaner if the car is in for any service.

As far as tunes, a pedal commander for throttle response and JB1/JB4 for some extra boost are the only two performance mods you would be able to do under warranty. Those are both easily removable and claim to be untraceable once removed should there be a warranty claim on the drivetrain.

 

[yrralis1]

I am considering getting either a recent (2022 or newer) vintage CPO, or possibly a new T or S. I am kind of thinking I am nuts given the costs of ownership. I have heard stories of the aluminum bolts they use and how failures in those bolts can cause real headaches, among other issues. On the other hand, a German engineered engine is something that other car companies cannot replicate. I can handle the higher maintenance costs, but would hate for the car to be in a long-time-to-resolve recall, or the kind of surprises I do not expect to get in a quality Japanese car. I guess I would start with the fact that the S is what intrigues but a lot of reviewers think the lighter front end and the goodies you get on the T makes that worthy of consideration. Playing around with the build website the S is about $10k more than the T and the T is probably $5k more than the base. I have only (and very briefly) driven the base and it was ok, but no faster off the line than a lot of others. I hear the launch control on the T does make a big difference. Any feedback is welcomed.

This post is gloom and doom. I have owned six Macans. Although occasional issue here, or there would pop up the basic reliability of the car has been great. Even the worst case scenario of the first generation known as the transfer case was covered under warranty and repaired in 24 hours. I was given an $80,000 loaner, the next day I was on my way .

In a car forum, it will always be post written by those who have problems about those problems. There’s very few posts about those who don’t have problems because they’re too busy posting about enjoying their car.

I came out of the Japanese cars many years ago. Even those “great reliable cars“ can break. I had an alternator go on a 2007 Honda SI in the first year. I had a grinding fourth gear despite the clutch pedal being pressed in a 1990, Nissan 300 ZX turbo. The irony is that the Nissan customer service that I received in Miami was so bad that I drove up to Coral Springs, which takes about an hour and 15 minutes. It turned out that the guy who helped me there ended up at Porsche many years later. We recognize each other instantly.

My advice is that before you buy any car it might be a good idea to simply unclench. It’s going to be OK because a great man named yrralis1 said so . 😊 Now cheer up !

 

[lyricgskills]

Here is one: PP7G37M2

Great Base build!

I personally don’t have the insulated glass, I simply have my windows tinted all around as my “insulated glass” 😊 other then that I would highly suggest the heated Sport steering wheel, as it is very nice.

Definitely post your T build when you have it!

 

[Nickgh]

This post is gloom and doom. I have owned six Macans. Although occasional issue here, or there would pop up the basic reliability of the car has been great. Even the worst case scenario of the first generation known as the transfer case was covered under warranty and repaired in 24 hours. I was given an $80,000 loaner, the next day I was on my way .

In a car forum, it will always be post written by those who have problems about those problems. There’s very few posts about those who don’t have problems because they’re too busy posting about enjoying their car.

I came out of the Japanese cars many years ago. Even those “great reliable cars“ can break. I had an alternator go on a 2007 Honda SI in the first year. I had a grinding fourth gear despite the clutch pedal being pressed in a 1990, Nissan 300 ZX turbo. The irony is that the Nissan customer service that I received in Miami was so bad that I drove up to Coral Springs, which takes about an hour and 15 minutes. It turned out that the guy who helped me there ended up at Porsche many years later. We recognize each other instantly.

My advice is that before you buy any car it might be a good idea to simply unclench. It’s going to be OK because a great man named yrralis1 said so . 😊 Now cheer up !

 

[Nickgh]

Yes, mein fu…oh, yes boss!

 

[jcmacleanbarron]

I am considering getting either a recent (2022 or newer) vintage CPO, or possibly a new T or S. I am kind of thinking I am nuts given the costs of ownership. I have heard stories of the aluminum bolts they use and how failures in those bolts can cause real headaches, among other issues. On the other hand, a German engineered engine is something that other car companies cannot replicate. I can handle the higher maintenance costs, but would hate for the car to be in a long-time-to-resolve recall, or the kind of surprises I do not expect to get in a quality Japanese car. I guess I would start with the fact that the S is what intrigues but a lot of reviewers think the lighter front end and the goodies you get on the T makes that worthy of consideration. Playing around with the build website the S is about $10k more than the T and the T is probably $5k more than the base. I have only (and very briefly) driven the base and it was ok, but no faster off the line than a lot of others. I hear the launch control on the T does make a big difference. Any feedback is welcomed.

I have a 2022 S Delivered in March 2022 and have over 11,000 miles. I have had no problems of any kind and really love the exquisite engine.