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Discussion Starter #141
I suppose anyone looking to buy a new CTEK would buy the MXS 5.0 or the Test & Charge or the 7002... if they want the ability to supply voltage during a battery change.
From reading here, it looks like new buyers are getting the MXS 5.0, probably because its cheaper.
 

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...

I think I will try to wait 2 hours next time & see. I will probably take a V reading right after I disconnect the charger & again 2 hours later to see the difference.

...I bet the V reading at jump start is a bit less than at battery posts....immediately after CTEK showed fully charged, you tested V @ battery & then @ jump start posts. Note the data & then dissipate the surface charge by either waiting 2+ hours...
I did the test.
Left hood open & hatch open all night as I fully charge with CTEK.

Used Multimeter to check voltage under hood @ jump start terminals (JS) & @ the battery terminals.

I 1st checked V with MM b4 charging & interior horseshoe big light ON & hatch 2 lights ON.
V=12.17 @ JS & V=12.25 @ battery. 0.8V difference.

This "Proves" that testing @ the JS terminals gives you a false, lower V reading!

After charging overnight & the timer turned off the interior & the hatch lights (car unlocked).
Check again:
V=12.62 @ JS & V=12.63 @ battery. 0V difference. 96.5% charged. (usually this is the best my 4.5 yr. old Varta battery will charge when CTEK says Step 7, green light.)

0.1 V is w/in error of measurement so, I'm calling it a wash.

This "Proves" that testing @ the JS terminals gives you an accurate V reading! Identical to the reading @ the battery terminals.

LOL.

I have no explanation for why there is a significant difference between battery voltage measured @ JS vs. direct @ battery when battery is ~ 65% charged compared to no difference when fully charged.

I expect V to be down when there is a load (lights on) but why that load would disproportionally affect the reading @ JS vs. direct?

I am still going to continue to charge my battery from the 12V outlet & test @ the JS points.
 

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Surface Charge

Test with Multimeter

After CTEK full charge 12.63 V tested @ Battery

Wait 2 hrs, retested @ battery 12.67 V

Either 2 hrs is not long enough to dissipate surface charge or surface charge did not cause the V reading to be too high.
 

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Charging via the cigarette lighter (assuming you have the lighter).

I try to be careful handling the unit and not pick it up or carry it by the cords. Over time, they can break. Lesson Learned. In the following pictures, this 4.3 is almost 5 years old. It works fine. Follow at your own risk. The downside to this is if there is a power outage, then the charger should not restart. Caveat Emptor. The upside is that its simple, trivial to get the hang of, and unlike the hood, the doors are probably designed to be opened and closed many, many more times than a hood.

Step 1

Turn the key to accessory position. The car wakes up.

Step 2

Remove the cigarette lighter. Put it in that tiny ashtray so you don’t lose it. Makes sure the plug is pushed all the way in for good contact. Sometimes people complain about a loose connection. I suspect they just didn’t get a good initial connection.



Step 3

Run the wire across the driver seat toward the door. Here, the cigarette plug is connected to the 8’ extension.



Step 4

Run the cord out the bottom of the door. I know this might freak somebody out who might wants to run it out of the window but the door has a rubber piece on the bottom that you can’t see. It doesn’t seem to harm the car or the wire and the door shuts. But, do whatever makes you happy. If your worried about it crimping or harming the body, then figure out some other way to get the cord out. This is also a good reason to use the 8’ extension. If you damage the extension, it cost maybe $11 for a new one. If you damage the actual cord, you probably need a new charger.



Step 5

Plug in the CTEK. Make sure the correct lights are on. It should move to the third light very quickly. If you get an error, figure out why.

Step 6

Turn the engine off. If it’s a real key, remove it. Close and lock the door

Step 7

This is my experience. The first 3 lights should turn on quickly. According to the manual, the unit does not go to the fourth light until the battery is 80% charged. It could take, per the manual, up to 20 hours. If the lights sits at the 3rd light for a long time, I think its telling me the battery is run down. I like to see it go from the third light to fourth within no more than 10 mins, which tells me, with no proof, that’s the battery is really no more than 80% discharged. At the fourth light, it’s just patience. It’s supposed to take no more than 10 hours. Once it moves to the 5th light, it’s only a couple of minutes until the green light should turn on. Once its green, it can stay there as long as you want. I’ve had it sit for days on my cars. It should look like this.



Step 8

Open the door, unplug the cigarette adapter, and put the cigarette lighter back where it belongs. Remove the cord from the car and lock it back up. Unplug the CTEK and put it where you store it. Manual says unplug CTEK first.

I hope this helps somebody. YMMV. You’re on your own. :)
I found out what my problem was when charging using the cigarette lighter plug adapter. It didn't seem to fit snug and after comparing it to the picture in the owner's manual on page 106 the CTEK adapter also doesn't look the same. I can move it around in the socket to make it work. This was the only one offered by CTEK so it has to be the correct one.

Thanks again for the detailed write-up!
 
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Discussion Starter #145
So here are two questions I'd like to know the answer for. Suppose you have charged the battery to 100% of its ability, that is 100% SOC:

First, you start the car. How long will it take the alternator to bring the battery back to a full charge, that is, 100% SOC?

Second, you let the car sit. Lets ignore the ambient temperature for now. What is the SOC after one day, two days, three days? etc. It would be very interesting to see a graph of how the SOC drops over days of inactivity. I assume that would be a combination of normal discharge plus the parasitic draws from Porsche electronics.
 

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Grim great job putting this post together. It should be really helpful to new and old owners. Good point about opening and closing the hood vs a door. Didn’t consider that. I’ve been using the socket in the cargo area on the driver side. I’ll be giving the socket at the bottom of the rear center console a try to see if turning the key to the accessory position also wakes up this socket and keeps it “hot”. It’s works with the cargo socket.

Just a couple of comments:

1. The MSX 5.0 charger has a specific reconditioning program for AGM batteries. You just need to cycle through the Mode button until both the AGM and reconditioning indicator lights are selected and lit.

2. The MSX 5.0 model does not seem to have any issues restarting after a power outage. It stays in the same mode it was in at the time power is lost. I simulated a power outage by just unplugging the charger (from the 110v AC wall outlet) for an hour or so after it had been charging for a couple of hours. The cargo area socket stayed hot during the “power outage” and continued charging after the charger was plunged back into the 110v AC wall outlet. I think I’ll do another test to see if the cargo or rear console 12v outlets stay hot after maybe an 8-10 hour “power outage”. [Edit I'm wrong about the rear console outlet, Its just USB ports. Sorry, new owner error, never looked close]
i have a 2018 MACAN and a 2018 boxster
i had a 2015 MACAN before

the BOXSTER can sit awhile and when it does get driven it’s short errands
i have never had a problem with the battery on any of the cars
i have a good jumper
if u jump it and drive it will it charge the battery
thx
 

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If you have a good battery no need to "jump it"...maybe you meant to say keep it on a battery maintainer??
 

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i have a 2018 MACAN and a 2018 boxster
i had a 2015 MACAN before

the BOXSTER can sit awhile and when it does get driven it’s short errands
i have never had a problem with the battery on any of the cars
i have a good jumper
if u jump it and drive it will it charge the battery
thx
I got interested in this issue after getting a couple of low battery/drive the car messages (After a series of quite a few short errands). Because some posters have suggested that Porsche might resist replacing a battery in a car that was not driven enough using a battery tender is preventive medicine to avoid an expensive battery replacement.
 

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My CPO .... 2016 S bought by me in 2019 - about 40 months out.......

hadf 4300 miles..... and a WEAK battery..........$700 later at the dealer, I was good again

1300/1400 miles/year isn't enough !!!
 

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Do you know what battery they replaced your OEM with? Was it Vartec 92Ah, 850 A EN?
 

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Th
My CPO .... 2016 S bought by me in 2019 - about 40 months out.......

hadf 4300 miles..... and a WEAK battery..........$700 later at the dealer, I was good again

1300/1400 miles/year isn't enough !!!
Thats what I’m trying to avoid
 

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Use a battery tender if you don’t drive enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
It should not be dead. Your manual tells you how to jump start it. There are posts under the hood. AFAIK if you drove long enough, and the battery was healthy enough to accept the charge, it should recharge it. How long the drive would need to be is open to speculation. Letting idle might not be enough. Please let us know how it goes.
 

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It should not be dead. Your manual tells you how to jump start it. There are posts under the hood. AFAIK if you drove long enough, and the battery was healthy enough to accept the charge, it should recharge it. How long the drive would need to be is open to speculation. Letting idle might not be enough. Please let us know how it goes.
Thanks
 

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I’m going on a 14 day trip
if I come back to a dead battery can I jump start it and drive it to charge or let it just idle?
thx
My family and I went on a cruise just a couple of weeks ago. I parked the '18 S (we have 38,000+ miles on it, in c. 29 months) in an outdoor long-term surface lot at SWF (Newburgh, NY, which is about 70 miles north of NYC).

This was early on a Thursday morning, and we arrived back there very late on the next-plus-one Saturday night, i.e., about 9½ days later, all with the car sitting out in the February cold. The Macan fired right up (as did a 2010 Camry that the other half of the family was in -- that car's battery is maybe three or four years old).

So, no problems there.

If you're really concerned -- or just for the heck of it -- you might want to get a lithium battery jump starter device, fully charge it in the house beforehand, and throw it in the car. Something such as:


or


Those are reasonably rated (the latter was the preferred model at Consumer Reports, at least the last time I checked a year or so ago), and either should be able to start a car that has a battery too weak to fire it up. Pretty idiot proof, too, those kind of devices. Pretty much all you have to know is how to open and close the hood, and that the positive (red) jumper lug is covered by a plastic flap.

04-New-Meter-with-Long-Leads.JPG
 

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Sorry - I do not know.....
So, your dealer invoice does not specify?

I was curious for this & any Porsche Dealer battery replacement.

If a Porsche Dealer replaced an OEM Varta or Banner battery with a Bosch or an Interstate...that would be useful to know!
 

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1) My car is sitting in the garage due to long-term self-isolation. How often should I charge the car?
(It isn't practical to leave it plugged in all the time as I navigate through the space all the time and will trip over the wire)

Separately, I read the following instructions for 12V lighter on another post:

Plug your battery maintainer into an electrical outlet
Turn your ignition on ( or alternatively start you car)
Plug the battery maintainer into your cigarette lighter
Switch ignition off ( or shut engine off)

2) Where you run the wire? Through the bottom of the door - Gasket or ???

3) Do I need to lock the car for it to work?

Thanks in advance.

Anthony
 
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