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Just an update: it's been 3 days since I switched to use the second charger on AGM RECOND. It has reached step 7 and stayed there. And the clamp LED indicator is still blinking green, i.e. full voltage maintained, instead of gradually going to amber and red like before.

I'll switch back to the first charger just to make sure that indeed it's the charger's problem and nothing to do with RECOND.


Grim, the charger MXS 5.0 has AGM and RECOND mode combo. So I figure it is OK. Anyway it has been on that mode for around 12 hours and it is now in Step 6 RECOND.

And yes, the charger should've detected a voltage drop in Step 5 but it didn't. And it should also detect it in Step 7 as noted below.

Just to make sure it's not the charger, I switched to my second charger with RECOND on and have yet to reach Step 7. Will post once I have another finding.

View attachment 262656
 

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Smart chargers don't like getting hooked up to remote terminals, . But it'd be a PITA to get it hooked up directly to the battery. I'll probably replace the battery soon, before it leaves us stranded, so will look if there's a rubber grommet under the cavity, to route a pigtail under the car, and maybe route it to the hitch connector area, to charge it from there, rather than the hood remote (jump) terminals.
There is a grommet in the battery compartment that gives direct access to behind the rear bumper that is ideal for routing a battery charging connector.


 

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Smart chargers don't like getting hooked up to remote terminals, like the Macan's. They just don't function correctly when left connected. They should, but guess they're not smart enough. Ha ha. But it'd be a PITA to get it hooked up directly to the battery. I'll probably replace the battery soon, before it leaves us stranded, so will look if there's a rubber grommet under the cavity, to route a pigtail under the car, and maybe route it to the hitch connector area, to charge it from there, rather than the hood remote (jump) terminals.
It is really pretty easy to hook up the CTEK pigtail directly to the battery. I have pictures and an explanation posted in this thread. Took maybe two hours, one of which was going out to buy a slightly longer metric bolt for where I attached to the positive post.

Its post #254 this thread.
 

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There is a grommet in the battery compartment that gives direct access to behind the rear bumper that is ideal for routing a battery charging connector.
Awesome news; thank you very much. What I'll do is buy a 3' OptiMate weatherproof extension cord, cut it and pass it thru the grommet there, then join it back inside the battery compartment, so I don't have to make a big hole on the grommet. Then attach the end of the cable to the hitch (one of the chain slots) via its cap. Easy to access, and poses no thread in a crash. Now just need to get the iCarSoft gizmo, but with the version II rather than III, correct? To be able to both reset service maintenance warnings and code battery change. Thanks.
 

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2016 Macan Turbo
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Useful info confirmed on the phone with CTEK yesterday:

If you want to charge a battery, use one with sufficient current capability to be able to handle the AH of the battery and ideally one with an AGM (snowflake) setting. The 4.3A, 5A and 7A models of CTEK chargers will all do this for our cars, though at different rates of charge.

If all you need to do is maintain a relatively charged battery, while all of the above chargers will do this, so will the smaller US 0.8 charger (0.8A). Notably, when ALL of these chargers go into maintenance / pulse charging mode they ALL do it at 13.5 - 13.6 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #490 ·
...and why would I do that?
Heat, < 10 amp, ctek 7002 is popular in the sweet spot.

eg they all say the same thing, heat kills these batteries

 

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Heat, < 10 amp, ctek 7002 is popular in the sweet spot.

eg they all say the same thing, heat kills these batteries

<10A != <5A

I understand the correlation between heat and batteries. What I was getting at is why the '5.0 A' that was stated. I was looking for a source of that statement.
 

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<10A != <5A

I understand the correlation between heat and batteries. What I was getting at is why the '5.0 A' that was stated. I was looking for a source of that statement.
While bigger is often better, in the case of charging these batteries the smaller you can manage, the better. If you want a bigger charger because your battery regularly gets so low it takes a day or more to bring your battery up to full, with say a 4 amp model, the message is that the level of charge in the battery is too low before the charger has been connected.

A small charger maybe 4 amp, is quite adequate if the battery is hooked up whenever the car isn't in use. Nothing wrong with a 7 amp charger though :)

Jules
 

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It is confirmed that it's the charger that is different (if not fully broken). It's an old CTEK purchased in 2014. Somehow when it reaches step 7, it doesn't deliver enough current to keep the batt charged. And it doesn't detect the voltage drop to repeat the charging cycle. A very weird and specific problem.

Anyway, time to shop for a new one.

Just an update: it's been 3 days since I switched to use the second charger on AGM RECOND. It has reached step 7 and stayed there. And the clamp LED indicator is still blinking green, i.e. full voltage maintained, instead of gradually going to amber and red like before.

I'll switch back to the first charger just to make sure that indeed it's the charger's problem and nothing to do with RECOND.
 

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Frankly, condo associations are the main cause of battery failures. In the situation I am observing, they won't allow trickle/ maintenance chargers to be attached to cars. How stupid is that?
 

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Condos and HOSs are a necessary thing/evil for many folks but they spawn litigation at rates that exceed my tolerance level. Not being able to charge a car is almost beyond belief during this electric transportation revolution.
That would just be one more reason to stay in a real, independent and stand alone home, assuming you’re blessed/smart enough to be able to do so.
 

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Winters are pretty rough over here in North Japan; my goal is less to maintain the battery in an optimal state but more to have enough charge for my car to start at any time.
Living in an apartment complex, I do not have access to an electric plug nearby, so I've been making do with a 1,000W lithium-ion portable power bank.

  • Drop the power bank in the trunk,
  • Turn the ignition on,
  • Connect the (Porsche official) battery maintainer in the power bank and plug it into the back 12V outlet,
  • Select the lead battery program,
  • Close the trunk, lock the car,
  • Come back after 6-7h to a charged battery,
  • Repeat once a week.

Seems to be working just fine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
Winters are pretty rough over here in North Japan; my goal is less to maintain the battery in an optimal state but more to have enough charge for my car to start at any time.
Living in an apartment complex, I do not have access to an electric plug nearby, so I've been making do with a 1,000W lithium-ion portable power bank.

  • Drop the power bank in the trunk,
  • Turn the ignition on,
  • Connect the (Porsche official) battery maintainer in the power bank and plug it into the back 12V outlet,
  • Select the lead battery program,
  • Close the trunk, lock the car,
  • Come back after 6-7h to a charged battery,
  • Repeat once a week.

Seems to be working just fine?
Please explain better. Exactly which power bank are you using? You turn on the ignition to accessory? Use the power bank to run the AC to the rebranded CTEK? Then plug the Ctek into the back outlet. I assume you turn the key back off? Does the power pack run out of power after 7 hours? Does the CTEK get to green?
 

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Exactly which power bank are you using?
Using a 1,000W portable power station by Jackery (well, a JVC-branded Japan-specific one to be precise).

You turn on the ignition to accessory? Use the power bank to run the AC to the rebranded CTEK? Then plug the Ctek into the back outlet. I assume you turn the key back off?
Just following the instructions in the Porsche charger:
  • Switch on the car ignition by turning the key.
  • Plug the Porsche charger into the power station (the same you would do with an outlet).
  • Connect the charger to the 12V outlet in the trunk.
  • Switch on the power station.
  • Select the "lead battery" program: LED on the charger turns yellow/orange.
  • Switch off the car ignition, close the trunk, lock the car.

Does the power pack run out of power after 7 hours?
The charging process uses ~5% of the power station per hour. Enough to last ~20h.

Does the CTEK get to green?
Yes, it goes through all the phases on the charger and eventually to the "battery full" symbol with a green LED.
Takes between 4 and 6 hours, but my car is still new.
 

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Great solution albeit, very expensive.
 
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