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I used the left bolt that holds the subwoofer to the frame as the grounding point. Very easy. Positive is attached to one of the clamps/brackets attached to the battery terminal post. I posted pictures to this thread.
 

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Yes, this. But no reason was given.
One of the audio experts here could probably answer the why. One of the guys suggested using the grounding post on the right side of the battery, toward the rear. The left subwoofer bolt seemed easier to access and was a good ground. I tested it with a multi-meter before using it. Same voltage as when using the positive and negative battery posts.

If you do go this route, be sure to put a charger on the under the hood charging posts so that if the battery becomes disconnected you don't lose and memory settings.
 
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This thread describes Permanent CTEK connection to Engine Bay Jump Start terminals

So no need to open hood to connect your CTEK!

Start reading @ post #62
Thanks. For now I'm just going to let the hood open and clamp to the jump posts. Not having the feel to install permanent eyelet connectors.

One of the audio experts here could probably answer the why. One of the guys suggested using the grounding post on the right side of the battery, toward the rear. The left subwoofer bolt seemed easier to access and was a good ground. I tested it with a multi-meter before using it. Same voltage as when using the positive and negative battery posts.

If you do go this route, be sure to put a charger on the under the hood charging posts so that if the battery becomes disconnected you don't lose and memory settings.
Got it. Will do more experiment once I get a battery analyzer.
 

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I think I just found out what is wrong. It's the battery! The car is more than 4 years old. It's rarely driven (only 42xx miles) and its battery has been rarely charged and maintaned.

When CTEK gets to Step 7 (Float), the battery juice will gradually decrease and after 2-3 days, the led on the indicator will go from green, to amber, and to red.

At Step 7, CTEK apparently won't notice this and keeps itself at 7. I thought at Step 5 (Analyze) it should notice that the battery isn't holding up well.

Oh well.... I just switched the charger just to be absolutely sure.

Hi guys,

I have a question on charging Macan. It's a 2018 Macan.

I tried to charge via the cig plug on center console using CTEK MXS 5 and it seemed to be working. After 1-2 days, all 7 charging LEDs lit up indicating a full charge (as shown below). I was under the impression that charging via the cig plug succeeded.

At the same time I had the clamps with indicator connected to the positive and ground terminals under the hood. I was expecting it to blink green. But instead it blinked red.

I'm confused. What could've gone wrong? Anyone?


View attachment 262234


View attachment 262235
 

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Mine is about time then. Better replace it before it dies on me.

4.5 years with no maintenance. It's pretty good IMO.
The MXS 5.0 and several other CTEK chargers have a recondition mode. Might give that a shot before replacing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #471 ·
I would not try recondition on an AGM battery. Recondition is to restratsfy. Its only for Wet Cell batteries. I have used recondition on my old Cayman and it did help but that was not a wet cell battery

Also, the CTEKs DO detect when the voltage drops, read the manual, it just restarts the cycle. I have seen this wondering why the green light was not on and it was sitting back at step 4/5. So you might have a bad CTEK.
 

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I would not try recondition on an AGM battery. Recondition is to restratsfy. Its only for Wet Cell batteries. I have used recondition on my old Cayman and it did help but that was not a wet cell battery

Also, the CTEKs DO detect when the voltage drops, read the manual, it just restarts the cycle. I have seen this wondering why the green light was not on and it was sitting back at step 4/5. So you might have a bad CTEK.
Grim,
Did you mean to say your green light WAS ON and then the CTEK went back to the last charging step and the last red light was back on? I was using my CTEK 7 and that happened last week. The charger went though the reds until it turned green. I left it on the charger for a while longer and it went back to the last red for a while then green again. I wouldn’t have known if I didn’t happen to check the charger as I was passing by while doing some other chores.
My Mercedes ran fine the next day and the on-off function worked fine at traffic lights (I check once in a while but usually leave it off).
What does that red-green-red-green sequence mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #473 ·
Grim,
Did you mean to say your green light WAS ON and then the CTEK went back to the last charging step and the last red light was back on? I was using my CTEK 7 and that happened last week. The charger went though the reds until it turned green. I left it on the charger for a while longer and it went back to the last red for a while then green again. I wouldn’t have known if I didn’t happen to check the charger as I was passing by while doing some other chores.
My Mercedes ran fine the next day and the on-off function worked fine at traffic lights (I check once in a while but usually leave it off).
What does that red-green-red-green sequence mean?
I made a typo above

First, "I have used recondition on my old Cayman and it did help but that was not a wet cell battery" that should have been "was not AGM". It was wet cell

Second, yes, when it hit green, its in step 7. The if the voltage drops to some level, it restarts the cycle. I have seen this, also by accident, walking by and seeing it back in step 5

Red just means its charging, green means its in maintenance mode, either trickle charging or pulse, step 8. I got no idea what the voltage level must be to restart.

CTEK support Q&A in this article

 

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Thanks for clearing that up. You can see the CTEK 7002 only has 3 red lights showing the progression of the charging and then the full battery light is green. Pretty simple. Attach the CREK leads to battery, plug CTEK into outlet and switch to AGM mode. I wonder if the battery switches between full/green and almost full/red depending on something going on with the battery?
The 8 charging Modes are part of the charging cycle, but they aren’t separately marked as on the 5.0 model.
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I would not try recondition on an AGM battery. Recondition is to restratsfy. Its only for Wet Cell batteries. I have used recondition on my old Cayman and it did help but that was not a wet cell battery

Also, the CTEKs DO detect when the voltage drops, read the manual, it just restarts the cycle. I have seen this wondering why the green light was not on and it was sitting back at step 4/5. So you might have a bad CTEK.
Grim, the charger MXS 5.0 has AGM and RECOND mode combo. So I figure it is OK. Anyway it has been on that mode for around 12 hours and it is now in Step 6 RECOND.

And yes, the charger should've detected a voltage drop in Step 5 but it didn't. And it should also detect it in Step 7 as noted below.

Just to make sure it's not the charger, I switched to my second charger with RECOND on and have yet to reach Step 7. Will post once I have another finding.

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Discussion Starter · #476 ·

The Recond program is used only for flooded batteries (including EFB), to re-balance the flooded acid inside.
The remixing/balancing is necessary to treat an already stratified battery or to prevent severe stratification.
AGM or GEL batteries are not flooded, and therefore do not suffer from stratification. That means the Recond mode will not help with AGM or GEL batteries.
Reconding an AGM battery does not harm the battery, but does not help either, so we cannot recommend the Recond program on AGM batteries.


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The Recond program is used only for flooded batteries (including EFB), to re-balance the flooded acid inside.
The remixing/balancing is necessary to treat an already stratified battery or to prevent severe stratification.
AGM or GEL batteries are not flooded, and therefore do not suffer from stratification. That means the Recond mode will not help with AGM or GEL batteries.
Reconding an AGM battery does not harm the battery, but does not help either, so we cannot recommend the Recond program on AGM batteries.


CTEK Support Team
Ow wow... but they have that mode there. Haha...
 

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Here is a real world analogy to help readers. Think of Volts as water pressure. Think of Amps as water flow. Amp-hours (AH) as flow X hours. Think of the battery as a big water tank, well above your home's roof, connected to your home's water pipes. If no faucets are running you have zero flow and whatever pressure is measured in your home's pipes will be roughly the same everywhere in your home. Ok, upper floors will have lower pressure than lower floors thanks to pesky gravity, and this is the one place where my analogy falls apart, so just think of your home as having all pipes on the same level and then the analogy will work. Electricity is not affected by the height of the wires or by gravity, so, let's keep going... lol.

OK, many have wandered why the MFD or a multi meter will register a lower voltage when things are turned on in the car as compared to measured at the battery alone out of the car. And to be clear, if you can see a reading on the MFD, then things are turned on in the car and drawing current. It is for the same reason that your water pressure in your shower drops when your spouse flushes a toilet. For a given amount of available water pressure / voltage there will be a pressure / voltage drop when there is a demand elsewhere in the system at the same time. This is why we can not learn much of anything about the battery's health from a voltage reading taken while in the car.

With the engine running, the alternator is also providing energy to the system at a higher voltage (pressure) than the battery (it has to in order to charge it) at a certain amperage (flow). If that voltage is higher than the battery's voltage then your MFD will report the higher value. This is just like adding a 2nd, higher water tank to your home's system will cause the pressure in your pipes to rise. Your pressure gauge can not measure only the lower tank's pressure once the additional tank is connected. It will register the higher pressure.

When you cut off the faucets / devices, the water tank / battery will have drawn down some of its water / voltage and the resulting pressure will be slightly lower. Your battery is fueled by a chemical reaction, just as you may have that water tank refilled slowly, and when that happens, the pressure / voltage will rise back up. How long that takes, and if it happens will depend on the condition of the battery's plates. In older batteries you may not get much additional voltage or any and the measured voltage will have dropped until the battery is recharged.

Another analogy that works is that the pressure you get out the end of your pipes is dependent on the length and diameter of your pipes. If you add enough length or make the pipes small enough, the internal resistance of the pipes will cause the flow to dwindle even while the measured pressure remains the same. This is just like the available amperage you can draw get at any point in the car will depend on how long the wires are and their diameter at your point of measurement. This is why the wires to the starter are large in gauge, to ensure that the needed current gets to the starter. (Also, all that resistance in a small wire, if asked to move a lot of current, will generate heat - think incandescent light bulb filament - and bad things will happen). However, the measured voltage should be approximately the same everywhere if there is no current being drawn in the car by connected devices. Short of disconnecting the battery, this is difficult or impossible to achieve in a Macan, so, measured voltage does vary depending on what is powered up in the car no matter how charged or healthy your battery is.
 

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Smart chargers don't like getting hooked up to remote terminals, like the Macan's. They just don't function correctly when left connected. They should, but guess they're not smart enough. Ha ha. But it'd be a PITA to get it hooked up directly to the battery. I'll probably replace the battery soon, before it leaves us stranded, so will look if there's a rubber grommet under the cavity, to route a pigtail under the car, and maybe route it to the hitch connector area, to charge it from there, rather than the hood remote (jump) terminals.
 
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