Will do on the razor knife, thanks for the tip.
Can you elaborate more on the shim for the sides?
Will do on the razor knife, thanks for the tip.I reviewed all the pics I took during the rear bar install, and there are two more tweaks:
- take a razor knife and trim a little of the H&R bushing edges, to fit into the Porsche bracket.
- Shim the sides of the bushings.
Wow! Great response. Appreciated.Adding only a front bar will increase understeer.
Adding only a back bar will decrease understeer, by adding some oversteer bias.
I highly recommend front and rear bar upgrades. It will keep the overall behavior more balanced, but significantly reduce body-roll, which will result with an overall higher cornering grip limit. Also, the transient response to quick steering inputs is significantly improved. Honestly, many of the forum enthusiasts act so handling-performance-oriented, but in reality, very few upgrade the sway bars, rather talk endlessly how lowering the car by 15mm is a significant handling improvement......air suspension is so great....wheel spacers to change the "stance".....
I have upgraded front and rear bars on many of my vehicles, and have always felt it was a significant improvement in cornering ability/feel/enjoyment. The upgraded bars on my Macan are the #1 grin inducing mod I have made, followed closely behind by my engine tuning mod (Burger Motorsports JB1 piggyback).
For the Macan, my opinion, the solid H&R bars are the only viable upgrade. The hollow Eurocode Tuning bars won't give you much roll-reduction over the Porsche factory bars, as they are not much bigger in diameter compared to the hollow factory bars. The H&R bars are more expensive, but they are of significantly higher quality than the Eurocode bars, as far as paint durability (rust) and the Eurocode bars can fracture due to stress risers where they weld on the bushing retaining rings. That's why the H&R bars don't have welded-on retaining rings, they are held with a set-screw.
Thank you againThe H&R bars are about $700 for the pair.
Labor = ??...should take a shop 2 to 4 hours of labor.
No alignment is needed.
I would factor around $800 for labor all in with supplies, tax etc..Thank you again
AVM
Looking forward to the feedback . . . good luck with the projectsI would factor around $800 for labor all in with supplies, tax etc..
I was considering it but when I looked into the specifics that this sway bar set is not "made" for this car, most shops wouldn't want to deal with that conflict. Also the rear bar needs spacers/shims for the bushing and longer bolts/spacer for the endlinks. I don't have a relationship with a shop that I feel would follow those specifics or want to deal with that and my neurosis of wanting everything perfect, thus, its a better DIY for me although I would happily pay someone to do it.
The other member had a shop do it and they re-used the OEM bushings, which is the easier way and I may do that If I can't get the right fit with the H&R bushings.
I'll report back on the handling and I'll be doing the front and rear on separate days so I can comment on the front only improvements based on a couple drives.
Thanks and I absolutely want this car to handle like a sports car, I bought a Porsche and if it doesn't have the big engine, it will at least handle very well....at least that's my thought process. It's a very good handler so far and I think these bars will get me to my goals.Looking forward to the feedback . . . good luck with the projects
On the spectrum of things, again, I am not looking to try and make my Macan handle like a sport car . . . but I think there is some room for improvement in the understeer and roll
I cannot even consider approaching this project on my own, so I have reached out to Jon at Flat6 for some further feedback. . . his shop has always provided me awesome service
AVM
Yeah I may have noticed that a bit when I threw it into the first turn I could find. Flat, but more effort needed to get it to turn. Won't be driving much more until I install the rear on Memorial Day, hopefully before I start drinkingLooks good...just be carefull driving, with the stiffer front bar, and the factory original rear bar, the car will have less body-roll, but it will understeer more.
What year is your Macan, and what is the part number on the front factory bar?
I am cross-referencing the part numbers on the 2023 and the only difference I see from the part numbers that VAGfan posted are the letter suffixes. To me that means they are all interchangeable in the chassis but somehow different, whether in core diameter or some other aspect.This continues to be a great thread . . . still working with Jon at Flat6 to see if the H&R sway bars will work with my 23' GTS. I have no reason to believe they will not but, unless I missed it, seems like those who replaced sway bars have done so on pre-22' and non-GTS models.
AVM
Thank you . . . I will send it along to Jon at Flat6I am cross-referencing the part numbers on the 2023 and the only difference I see from the part numbers that VAGfan posted are the letter suffixes. To me that means they are all interchangeable in the chassis but somehow different, whether in core diameter or some other aspect.
malahhaor has a 2017 GTS and was the other documented install on this thread.
I am using this site if you want to check it out:
IFInterface
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@VAGfanAll Macans (2015 to today) can interchange swaybars, the only differences across the years and trim levels (and air versus steel springs) are tweaks to the stiffness (diameter, wall thickness, bushing compliance). The suffix letter of the part number denotes those differences.
I'll guess not likely but a good place to start would be to measure the diameter of your stock bars. They are most likely hollow (although as mentioned, wall thickness may vary) and with that assumption, a solid bar of equal or greater diameter would be stiffer.@VAGfan
Do you know how all those parameters vary between the H&R sway bars you installed and the stock sway bars on my 23’ GTS?
I would hate to replace two sway bars with the same characteristics (e.g. stiffness)
AVM